Where to go in Northern India – The Golden Triangle and beyond

I spent a long time working out where to go in Northern India and what was in each location/logistics of getting between each etc. Here are the places I went and the attractions that drew me to them:

Agra – Taj Mahal and Agra Fort
Jaipur – Amber fort, City Palace, Tiger Fort, Jal Mahal and many more
Udaipur – Lake Palaces, City Palace and more a short journey away

My thoughts on each one are;

Agra
It’s worth going to Agra just to see the Taj. Agra Fort is also nice but you could easily see both in one day and there’s not much else to do in Agra therefore it’s worth just arriving for one evening, looking around the next day then moving on.

Where I stayed – Zostel Hostel. India’s first chain of hostels. It was clean, nice, sociableand walking distance to the Taj.
Distance from Dehli – Approx 3 hours by train or 5 hours by car

Jaipur
The Amber fort is pretty amazing and will take a good few hours to look round properly. The view from up by Tiger Fort is also worth seeing (you’ll need to take a tuk tuk). City Palace was ok, it has some beautiful architecture but also a textiles museum and armoury section which is where they started to lose us.
There is a bazaar that’s really good for clothes shopping, definitely worth bargaining there as the prices do start at really inflated amounts and will drop a lot as soon as you say you’re going to look around.
It was great to be in a bigger city for a couple of days, the only thing I wasn’t so keen on about Jaipur was that it’s so big you kind of have to get a Tuk Tuk everywhere and I much prefer being able to walk.

Where I stayed – The Heritage Palace Hotel. We though we’d treat ourselves. Aside from there being an amazing shower I would not recommend going there. It was noisier and harder to get a nights sleep than any hostel I’ve ever stayed in due to inconsiderate guests, unattentive staff (in not bothering to tell the inconsiderate guests to shut up) and doors which beep constantly like an alarm clock if left even slightly ajar, something which most of the guests chose to do throughout the night for some unknown reason.
On our way back from Udiapur we spent one more night in Jaipur which we spent at Zostel and whilst probably my least favourite of the 3 Zostels we stayed in it was still much better than the expensive hotel
Distance from Agra – Approx 5 and a half hours by train

Udaipur
Branching slightly out of the golden triangle but my favourite out of the places we visited in this part of the trip by far as it was sunny, had nice views and was a good place to relax. It was easy to wonder around the town and felt pretty safe to do so.

Where I stayed – Zostel Hostel. Amazing views. We had a private room for one night which felt like being in a hotel with a lake view from our room. Roof top restaurant looking out over the lake palaces (in particular the one that featured in a bond film). They couldn’t have got a better location. Only downside is the restaurant charges corking fees if you want to drink anything from outside, rather than bought from the restaurant and that is the only common area there.

Distance from Jaipur – Approx 7 and a half hours by train or 7 hours by car

After Udaipur we went back to Jaipur as we both had flights going on from there. My flight was to Rishikesh and I had to leave on that date but if I’d had more time I would have loved to have seen Jaisalmer which is known for taking camel rides into the desert and camping there.

The Taj Mahal and Agra Fort

Firstly they are both amazing. The Taj more so than Agra Fort but I was very pleasantly surprised as it is a lot more spectacular than photos make it out to be.

Getting a guide for both is very much worth it if you negotiate them down as you will then see a lot of things you otherwise wouldn’t have done.

It’s worth a wander round to the south gate town area of the Taj afterwards as well for lunch as there are a lot of great really cheap places to eat.

I recently learnt one theory of why a lot of the local men want to take photos with blonde white girls though which isn’t so nice so have now decided to refuse all photos unless it’s someone wanting one with their kid.

I’m also in the process of leaning to be a bit meaner/blunter as it’s the only way to escape the excessive hassle.

And also not to shake my head for ‘no’ but instead put my hand out and shake it as shaking your head can mean yes too.

Learning not to fall asleep in taxis…

I love sleeping in moving vehicles. Trains, planes, cars etc. put me in them and, as long as I’m not driving, I’ll go to sleep pretty much instantly.

Having been told lots of horror stories about girls travelling alone and having fallen asleep it kind of felt like I then really shouldn’t fall asleep even though I wasn’t travelling alone as then it would have left my friend essentially by herself. Especially as everyone here has said that the North of India is one of the few places where the media actually downplay how dangerous it is for women rather than over exaggerate.

So I didn’t but it took a lot of concentration not falling asleep at any point during the 3 hour car ride, especially once it got too dark to read.

Think I’m going to need to make sure I have more films downloaded just in case.

And learn to memorise routes before leaving as the taxi drivers do just turn round and go “where are we?”

Trying to get to Agra

Apparently just because trains say they are available it doesn’t actually mean they are. My friend booked us tickets to get to from Delhi to Agra 2 weeks ago and was sent a text about them but everything contained in the text is in acronyms. Turns out “WL” means waitlist meaning you don’t actually have a ticket unless others cancel before the train leaves.

Luckily we found this out yesterday so decided to book a taxi as there were no other trains available whatsoever.

We had originally been recommended against getting a taxi though as they’re unreliable and we’re two females travelling alone. So far we’ve been waiting for a taxi since 1.30pm but the first driver never showed so we booked another which has now driven 20km in the wrong direction so we’re still waiting (it’s 4.15pm).

The safety bit I can’t comment on yet but I think it’s going to take me a while to get used to always having to think about if there are enough of you in a taxi, or what time of day it’s going.

On a more fun note, I ate Pan (see photo) for the first time last night. It’s like eating a bar of lavender soap and the taste NEVER goes away

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The start

I’m at the airport, I’ve checked in and have quite a few hours to kill but after a week of unpacking, packing and repacking as a result of moving everything back to my parents in the same week it feels pretty good just to be sat still for a while and know I don’t have to continue to stare at my suitcase thinking “how the hell is it ever all going to fit”.

It did at least (fit that is) and it’s only 15kg which considering as that’s kind of about the weight of my handbag on a daily basis normally, I’m pretty proud of that.

I am exhausted though.  There’s so much more to sort when going travelling later in life than just out of uni and for a life organisaion phobe like me even just the thought of some of it is exhausting.

I feel a lot more emotional about leaving than I’d expected as well and have really had to struggle not to have a little cry in the airport, which for those of you that know me well is quite surprising. I kind of thought I’d just treat it like any other holiday but it seems my brain has registered how long it’s actually for and therefore how many of the people I love so much that I won’t get to see for so long.

Or it could just be the exhaustion. That tends to make me emotional!

As I am so exhausted though I do now feel the need to spend the rest of my waiting time before my flight just staring into space.

Thank you to everyone who has been there to send me off over the various weeks. It’s been the best way to leave getting to see all of you and have fun with you before going xxxx